What
is the most important reason to
have custom shirts made?
Making
the face look good is the most
important reason to have custom
shirts made. When meeting for
business or social occasions,
a person's face should be the
focal point of attention. The
design of the collar below the
face has a significant impact
on the way the face shape is perceived.
Utilizing the skills of custom
shirt-making, and evaluating face
shape and neck length, the collar
is designed to create a harmonious
effect, complementing each individual
in a unique fashion.
How
much does a custom shirt cost,
and how many do I have to buy?
The
cost of a custom shirt is based
on the specific fabric chosen.
There is usually a minimum order
of 4 required. At Top Shelf, a
new customer can start with a
two-shirt order as a way to test
the service and the product. Today
we separate our price quotations
into two categories. We have several
hundred quality cotton choices
that will range from $106 to $154.
Above that we have premium shirt
fabrics, coming from the mills
of Loro Piana, Testa, Ferno, Thomas
Mason, David and John Anderson
and others which fall into a price
range of $187 to $450. There is
no difference in how we build
the shirts or design them, only
a difference in the cost of the
materials.
How
do I know the shirt will fit?
Shirtmakers
take up to 30 measurements to
guarantee a comfortable fit. Fit
however is subjective, and different
people like different types of
fit. At Top Shelf, we use actual
try-on parts to let people experience
the look and feel of different
aspects before a shirt is made.
We use sample collars, try-on
chest blocks, and even sample
cuffs to allow a customer to feel
and react to different sizes before
we build. It is also an option
when placing a large order (like
a dozen) to have one shirt made
first, before the rest are cut,
so the customer has a chance to
feel the fit.
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Do
all my shirts have to be the same?
Absolutely
not. You can choose different materials
for each shirt from the hundreds
we show. You can vary the collar,
cuff, pockets, button closures,
and other details at will. Sometimes
varying the styles dramatically
neccessitates extra charges, primarily
if the bodies cannot be cut together.
How
do I have to take care of my shirts?
Most
custom shirts today are made with
fine 100% cottons. They can be handled
two ways. A minority of customers
will launder their shirts at home
using washing machines, and then
hand-iron them. This can be hard
work to make the shirt look good.
We anticipate that most of our customers
will take their shirts to a commercial
laundry, where they will be pressed
on machines that gives the shirts
a professional finish.
What
about shrinkage?
Shrinkage
is a difficult area for the shirt
maker to tackle: here is how we
approach it. All quality shirtmakers
understand the need to build in
shrinkage allowances. Specific amounts
are added in the collar, shoulder
yoke, cuff, and sleeve length, allowing
the shirt to shrink to its final
size during the first 3-5 launderings.
Unfortunately, many shirtmakers
use collar interlinings that cannot
withstand the high heat of commercial
laundry collar presses, and so many
shirt collars shrink below the size
they are supposed to be. |
How
long will custom shirts last?
Some
cotton weaves are sturdier than
others by up to 30 percent. Starch
chemical degrades cotton, so two
identical shirts will vary based
on the instructions light starch
or heavy (we recommend light or
no starch). The simplest answer
is approximately two years, if worn
in a rotation of every other week,
or about 50 wearings. Anything beyond
this we call free miles. Shirts
usually wear out in one of three
areas- collar edge, cuff edge, or
elbow. A heavy beard, a sharp watch
band, or a lot of "phone elbow"
will precipitate premature wear,
and should be discussed with the
shirtmaker. |
How
long does it take to get a shirt
made?For
a first time customer, the initial
appointment will take about an
hour at the most, for selection,
measurements and styling. After
that, the construction can take
anywhere from 3-8 weeks, based
on the resources used for fabric,
and seasonal demand. We estimate
3-4 weeks for app. 95% of our
orders.
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